YTSEJAM Digest 4870
Today's Topics:
1) More on audio pt1
by "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
2) More on audio pt2
by "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
3) yngwie concerto $10 off
by "Trevor W. Hoit" <TrevorW@ms.kallback.com>
4) Spock's Beard Webcast
by joe del tufo <joe@mobiusnm.com>
5) The thread of the month :) AUDIO!
by "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
6) re: bored? I'll show you bored
by "Joe Bissonnette" <Bissonnette@cdr.wisc.edu>
7) Kings X
by "Jason Barden" <jbarden@usdbs2.usdb.k12.ut.us>
8) Re: The thread of the month :) AUDIO!
by "Brian Hayden" <hayd0029@tc.umn.edu>
9) Re: Gee, am I a bored person or what?
by trent <cybertrent@yahoo.com>
10) More Audio (NDTC)
by Brian Lundy <Styles@injersey.com>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:11:44 -0500
From: "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
To: retaehT maerD <ytsejam@axnet.net>
Subject: More on audio pt1
Message-ID: <374E8800.14E62B59@isd.net>
Andrew Coutermarsh wrote:
>Just a question: When you listen to MP3s or other computer audio, do you
>do it through your stereo? If so, doesn't that scream bloody murder at
>your ears, with all that lower-quality audio? I'd think that with a
>high-end stereo, you can probably hear every "swish", hiss, etc.
I've burned MP3s to CD and played it back on my system, it's not pretty.
I normally use the computer for MP3 playback. I still use what I think is the
best sound card ever made, The SoundBlaster AWE-32 with the daughter
card and 8 megs of ram. I gutted the amplifier from the computer speakers
to run the main speakers as well as the two 8" subs from a modified Alpine
four channel (80x4) car stereo amp. The original amp and poor excuse for
crossover networks were dirty and about as linear as Kevin Moore's testicles.
I power the amp with a home-brew 40 amp regulated power supply.
MP3s sound OK on the computer system, but when I convert them back to
CDA and burn then to disc, they sound awful. Even on the computer.
I assume this is an issue with the software I'm using, though I've tried three
different programs. Some day I should make a good cable to run from the
computer to the preamp and see how it sounds on my system. I could do it
with about 15 feet of cable. If I get that ambitious, I'll let you know.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Breitweg wrote:
>This discussion of stereo equipment has given me the urge to go and
>buy something *chuckle*. What is the first high end component that
>one should start with (because I certainly don't have enough extra
That's a tough one... I need to know where you are starting from.
If your primary source is CD, start with a good player. I'd go for the Mid-fi
gear to start with. The extreme hi-end gear is VERY expensive. Mid-fi will
offer the best bang for the buck and typically there is a bigger gap in audible
differences between consumer audio and Mid-fi than Mid-fi to Hi-end.
My recommendation for a CD player would be the Rotel RCD-971.
The RCD-971 typically goes for $699.00 and is worth every penny. The 971
is probably the best player available under $1,000.00 with the possible exception
of the Rega Planet. (also about $699.00) To me, the Rega is a little too laid back
sounding, but that's just my taste. Either one would be make ANY consumer
machine pale in comparison. The next level would put you in the entry level hi-end.
Those machines run from about $1,000.00 to $2,500.00 and would include
California Audio Labs (CAL) "Icon mk II, CAL CL-20 , Theta "Miles", and several
others. The next plateau would normally involve a separate CD transport and
DAC. (Digital to Analog Converter) However, Wadia Digital makes some KILLER
integrated players, as does Theta and a few others... At a substantial price.
Ditch the whole receiver scene, they suck! Go to a separate preamp and amp.
If you wish to incorporate surround sound, Adcom and Rotel both make processors
with an integrated three channel amp for use with an existing stereo system.
You can pick up Adcom, Rotel and B&K separates at a reasonable price.
If you have a little more coin to spend, look into Bryston or Hafler amps, and
Audio Research, Bryston, or Sonic Frontiers preamps. Also the Adcom GFP-750
preamp is a steal at $1,300.00.
If you only listen to CD, you can get by with three components. (CD player,
preamp and amp) If you're not into huge power, I think all three could be
purchased for under $2,500.00. The big bucks should be spent on the
speakers, but the source components need to be decent on order to make
the speaker purchase worthwhile. As I said before: "Shit in, shit out."
Even with modest speakers, YOU WILL HEAR THE DIFFERENCE. Typically,
the better gear will last for years beyond what normal consumer gear will, and
in the unlikely event there is a failure, not only are they worth repairing, usually
the manufacturer will repair them at a reasonable price and return it to you
quickly. Quite often they will even make circuit upgrades when older gear is
serviced. That's something you'll NEVER see from the gods of mass marketing.
>cash to get everything at once). Also are there places online where I
>can get an idea of prices for such equipment?
In reality, the only way to get the ACTUAL price is to call a retailer.
You can usually get the list prices online, most of the time you can get
the stuff cheaper at the stores. There are usually links on the manufacturers
web pages to their authorized dealers, some of them publish sale prices online.
Many hi-end stores have a layaway plan. If you find one that does, buy the CD
player first, then buy the preamp as soon as you can spare the change.
On the day you buy the preamp, put the amp on layaway. This plan my be
a little maddening because the preamp is useless without an amp. It least
you'll be able to drool and glare at it while you're paying the amp off. :)
Until you buy a separate tuner, you can use your existing receiver as a tuner
assuming it has a "Tape out" RCA set, most do. Just connect a set of cables
from the receiver tape out, to the tuner or any other line level input on the
preamp. You'll need two good interconnect cables to connect the CD player
to the preamp, and the preamp to amp. DON'T SKIMP. For acceptable cheap
cables, I'd look at the Kimber Kable "Hero's" or the DH Labs BL-1 SERIES II.
You can expect to pay somewhere between $100.00 to $150.00 for each 1
meter pair. Tara Labs also has some OK interconnects in the same price range,
however, I've heard better overall reviews from people regarding the Kimbers,
and DH Labs products. Believe it or not, that's cheap for audiophile grade cables.
Some people are spending over a grand for a 1 meter cable set! I'm not one of them.
The most I've ever spent on a cable set is about $300.00 and I was more than a
little skeptical about my purchase but I had the option to return them within 30 days
if I was not satisfied. Had it not been for the return policy, I don't think I would
have
even considered it, but I'm glad I did, they were clearly more transparent sounding than
the $90.00 cables they replaced.
--
Al - The Ytse-ProGtologist
^
Switchcraft Microsystems
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"It's supposed to pack an awesome buzz" --Butthead
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:13:08 -0500
From: "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
To: retaehT maerD <ytsejam@axnet.net>
Subject: More on audio pt2
Message-ID: <374E8854.A73ADA5@isd.net>
Pat Sullivan wrote:
>I have no doubt that I'd be surprised. I also have no doubt that I'd
>have serious issues convincing my wife that they would be prudent
>purchases.
Bring her with you to listen to some top tier gear, She may convince
herself if she's a music lover. It worked for me. :) Make sure to bring
HER favorite music with!
>spending several hours a day listening to it, it just seems
>extravagant. I'd rather spend that money on something I *do* spend
>several hours a day with...like my computer. :-)
Once you enter the domain of hi-end, you'll be happy to make the time.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Kizer wrote:
>The best way to approach this is to set a budget first... You will always be
>able to spend all of your money on stero gear, where a receiver can range
>anywhere from $50 - $50,000... For instance, I set myself up a budget to do my
Not quite... I've never heard of a $50,000.00 receiver. Hi-end companies don't
build receivers, it's audiophile taboo. Some Mid-fi companies build some damn
nice receivers if that's your bag. they too are a cut above the rest but still can't
compete with quality separates.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan McCormack (AKA The Cow God) wrote:
>heh, i never thought the choice of cd player would have any effect on the
>sound. we're all a bunch of poor, misguided sods aren't we? :) i've been
When you're dealing with consumer gear, it doesn't; Once you cross the
line and get into higher quality gear, you would be amazed. Every good
machine has it's own unique sonic signature. (Forward, laid back, wide sound
stage, narrow sound stage, open, congested and so on...)
>following this thread with interest. Al, a question: I understood that Bose
>speakers were really good. I assume you're goign to tell me they're about as
>good as Aiwa. But we've got a Dolby surround 10-speaker (+subwoofer) setup
>in my non-rectangle-shaped living room, and it sounds quite good (although
>the sony receiver doesnt have enough power, or something like that, cuz the
>rear speakers are barely audible, even when set to +10db). What is the
>audiophile's opinion of Bose?
I hate to do this... The audiophile crowd has a cute little acronym for Bose.
Bring Other Sound Equipment. Sorry :( I think they could be greatly improved
by replacing the crossover components with better devices. Keep the same
values but use better parts. Bose uses electrolytic capacitors in their crossover
networks, that's a BIG NO NO, but it's cheap. Replace the caps with Solen
polypropylene fast caps and the replace the smaller inductors with Solen
"Perfect lay" air core inductors. The larger value inductors should be replaced
with low DCR steel laminate core inductors. How complex the crossovers are
will determine how much it will cost to rebuild them. Bose usually has a fairly
simple crossover, and that's not a bad thing. Some of the more elaborate
crossovers are the worst sounding, and very often simple first order 6 dB
per octave crossovers sound the best as long as each driver has a good
linear response within the range it's operating. First order crossovers generally
have far less time domain and phase problems than more complex designs.
2nd, 3rd and 4th order crossovers are quite often used to save mediocre
drivers from damage due to their limited linear response. If your Bose speakers
have a first order crossover, you should be able to rebuild them for about $80.00
per speaker, assuming they are a 3-way speaker. 2-ways are even cheaper yet.
However... <grin> The new crossover parts will be much L A R G E R!
The caps could be a big as a beer can, and the inductors damn near as big.
If your Bose's have little room inside, you may want to build an external crossover.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a lighter note... NOT!
I'm replacing the timing gear set on a 300 ci inline Ford six. IN A VAN!
With air! and EFI... THIS SUCKS!!!! And while I've got it torn down, I'm
also replacing the Distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, all filters, oil pan
gasket (had to pull the pan to remove timing gear fragments) Spark plugs,
PCV valve, Serpentine belt, all cooling system hoses, and because it's such
a bitch to get to, the water pump is also going to be replaced. Plus, I also
intend to flush the cooling system and recharge the AC.
Have I told you that vans really suck to work on? You need arms like ET.
I figure if I get all this stuff replaced with OEM or better parts, I wont have
to fuck with it for a few years. A lot of this stuff I'm doing is preventative
maintenance. Murphy's law states: "1 week after the van is reassembled
the water pump will fail." Cars SUCK!!!
--
Al - The Ytse-ProGtologist
^
Switchcraft Microsystems
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"It's supposed to pack an awesome buzz" --Butthead
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 05:58:40 -0700
From: "Trevor W. Hoit" <TrevorW@ms.kallback.com>
To: "'ytsejam@ax.com'" <ytsejam@axnet.net>
Subject: yngwie concerto $10 off
Message-ID: <E04FDFCFDC87D21194D300A0C9D4BAFA0F426A@ms.kallback.com>
Ray and all,
Go get Concerto for $18.95 or $10 off anything else.
http://ad.buy.com/clickfrom/promo/10dollars.asp
You're welcome.
Trevor
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:08:46 -0400
From: joe del tufo <joe@mobiusnm.com>
To: freaks@torchsong.com
Subject: Spock's Beard Webcast
Message-ID: <v04003a02b3743c2e29fe@[208.236.238.161]>
STUDIO M LIVE : SPOCKS'S BEARD --> 6/1/99 7PM EST www.studiomlive.com
On Tuesday June 1 at 7 PM EST, Studio M is proud to present Spock's Beard
in their first webcast. The energy of Spock's Beard evidenced in their
latest release Day For Night has generated rave reviews both online and in
print, so don't miss your chance to hear them in their element. Visit the
Studio M web site at http://www.studiomlive.com to listen to the event and
see photos taken at the show. The images from the show are already there,
at http://www.studiomlive.com/spock.html
To sign up on the Studio M mailing list to get info on the Spock's Beard
show and future (currently bi-weekly) Netcasts including upcoming shows by
Miles Hunt, Grey Eye Glances and others, send a message to
spock@studiomlive.com with SUBSCRIBE as the subject. This mailing list is
pretty infrequent- only announcements of shows every other week or so.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:10:55 -0500
From: "Al @ Switchcraft" <al@isd.net>
To: retaehT maerD <ytsejam@axnet.net>
Subject: The thread of the month :) AUDIO!
Message-ID: <374EA3EF.A00782D1@isd.net>
Brian Lundy wrote:
>Excuse me while I hurl... :) I think I've made my point about
>that. The cones are made of paper, that's all. All high-priced,
That's not always a bad thing. I'd rather have good paper composite cones
than cheap poly, fiberglass or kevlar cones. Some of the best drivers in the world
use a paper composite or laminated paper cone. Unfortunately, Bose doesn't use
them. Just as there is some great carbon fiber, kevlar and poly composite cones, there
is 10 times as many horse-shit ones. A cone does not a good speaker make.
It's not the material that determines the quality, it's how it's implemented.
>high-hyped crap. Whatever you pay for whatever Bose speaker system you
>see, you can pay the same or less for far better equiptment.
I wholeheartedly agree with that. As I said earlier, he could greatly improve
the sound of the Bose's by scraping the supplied crossover and duplicating
the circuit with superior components.
>$$-wise, a mid-priced Yamaha, Denon, Onkyo, or HK will decimate anything
>Sony could ever dream to do. And don't fall for that Sony "ES" line
I'll agree with the Denon recommendation for upper low-end to Mid-fi depending
on the model. I have a real hard time agreeing with the Yamaha and any newer
HK gear. As a service technician, I've been inside most of this stuff. As far a
Onkyo goes... It's VERY model and era dependent. Many common audio gear
manufacturers like to hide several pieces of shit behind a few acceptable models.
>stay far away from Sony when it comes to home audio. Sony video, (DVD,
Agreed..
>VCR, Tvs, etc.) is actually some great stuff for the price.
OK at best.. For reasonable priced TVs and VCRs, I've found Panasonic
to be one of the best values around. Hitachi also has some nice stuff.
I'd almost be willing to recommend Mitsubishi if they could manage to
build reliable logic circuits and remote control receivers.
Cow God wrote:
>hehe, i didn't want to get the sony, but my grandfather swears by sony audio
>and convinced my dad to get it. in my room i have an old piece of shit
Sony has been living of their name for FAR to long. There was a time...
>technics component system (our old one) that, to me at least, sounds better
>than the sony in the living room.
That's funny! Technics makes some of the most reliable bad sounding gear
you can find. They don't really sound any better or worse than the gear they
are designed to compete against, they just hold up longer.
>another thing this conversation has helped me out in - i had 6 speakers
>hooked up to my receiver in my room, and every time i turned it up past
>barely audible it would shut off and the display would say "protector". i
>always thought it was cuz it was a piece of shit. now i know why :) i
>unplugged all but my 2 main speakers and now i can turn it up fine. hehe.
>Thanks Ytsejam(tm)! moo :)
You learn well, Grasshopper... You're welcome :)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Omega wrote:
>Generally, get speakers first and work up the chain from there.
>Among components, they have the greatest effect on sound. Also,
As true as that may be... If the source components are lousy, better
speakers can REALLY reveal those shortcomings.
>a decent rule of thumb is to spend at least half your budget on
>speakers, less than half on electronics, and as little as possible on
Fair enough. However, these guys are virgins, I don't see them dropping
several grand on speakers at this point. Let them hear the virtues of better
source components first, that alone may give then enough incentive to seriously
consider picking up some better speakers. Plus, many mid-fi to hi-end speakers
can show the amp some wicked loads at crossover points or at the free-air
resonance of the woofer, cheap receivers can't deal with this well at all.
Better amps can maintain linearity with wild impedance, inductive and
capacitive swings, and do it with ease. That's the payoff of good circuit and
power supply designs.
>cables... Any moderately-priced interconnects (Monster, etc) should work,
I used to think that... And it WRONG. Monster cable makes only a few OK
cables, the rest are hyped shit. Cables DO make a big difference if the gear
itself is worthy. Look into Kimber, Tara, DH-labs, Cardas, MIT, Straight Wire,
Transparent Cable, and Vampire Wire. BTW, Radio Shack's best gold audio
interconnect cable is better than 90% of the stuff Monster Cable makes.
>and some 14-gauge or 16-gauge zip cord from your local home-improvement
>store is fine for speaker cables. (Unless you're really spending a load
NO NO NO NO! Stranded cable in general is bad. You'd be better off making
a speaker cable with 12 AWG Romex. I'm not kidding. And Romex is cheaper, too.
Here's a great link that covers the topic of speaker cables, it's VERY detailed
so be prepared to read. For those truly interested, read the entire thing.
http://sstage.com/pf02.htm
>on your stereo, then you _might_ be able to see the effects of "high-end"
>cables.)
On shit gear, cables will have only a moderate effect. On mid-fi and up, cables
can make HUGE differences. Not all of the spendy ones are created equal, there
is several different technologies applied to cables, and they all have slightly
different sonic characteristics. Some cables work better with certain gear
depending on input and output impedance among many other things.
Another thing you need to remember.. If you're going to experiment with
cables, make sure you change ALL of them in the signal path. Just changing
the one to the CD player won't do as much if the one connecting the amp
to the preamp is shit.
For those of you interested, here is a great description of Hi-end audio and
what separates hi-end from consumer gear. If you read this, you will learn much.
http://sstage.com/noisy07.htm
--
Al - The Ytse-ProGtologist
^
Switchcraft Microsystems
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"It's supposed to pack an awesome buzz" --Butthead
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:31:51 -0500
From: "Joe Bissonnette" <Bissonnette@cdr.wisc.edu>
To: ytsejam@axnet.net
Subject: re: bored? I'll show you bored
Message-ID: <8625677F.004ECC16.00@domino.cdr.wisc.edu>
ytsekorg@ax.com wrote:
> Maybe someday I'll be able to make this puppy public access (cable modems
> might be coming here this year!), but until then, this 2 week long no
repeat
> jukebox is mine, all mine! HAHAHAHAHAHA! :)
>
> Here's a URL with the playlist for those interested.
> http://www.safelink.net/washburn/playlist.htm
>
You think you have time to waste? I actually read through your whole damn
10000 song playlist. I have nothing to say about the Kenny G and Men At
Work, but I was wondering about the KevMo tracks in there. SDV, some of
the Chromakey stuff and some other songs I haven't heard of (Normal Words,
Song for Eric, etc). Where is that from, and how can I get it?
>My opinion of Star Wars: The Phantom Menace: It doesn't live up to the
hype
>(NOTHING can live up to THAT much hype, but it sure as hell came alot
closer
>than Godzilla, hehehe), but it was a damn great movie overall. In all
>liklihood it will even be made better by the next two movies as well.
SHIT,
>sorry for spoiling it. I don't think many people knew about the next two
>movies. Oops. :)
SW Spoiler! Darth Maul chops off Jar Jar's head and eats his liver with a
nice chianti! <sigh> if only wishing could make it happen...
Biz
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 08:44:46 -0600
From: "Jason Barden" <jbarden@usdbs2.usdb.k12.ut.us>
To: ytsejam@axnet.net
Subject: Kings X
Message-ID: <B0003871345@usdbweb.usdb.k12.ut.us>
I've decided to take the plunge and get more into Kings X. I bought Dogman
when it came out, and like it. So what should I get next?
BTW anyone know the name of the song for that Gap Khaki Soul commercial?
I can't get it out of my head.........
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:51:39 -0500
From: "Brian Hayden" <hayd0029@tc.umn.edu>
To: ytsejam@axnet.net
Subject: Re: The thread of the month :) AUDIO!
Message-ID: <iss.b61.374ead79.cd76e.1@garnet.tc.umn.edu>
Responding to the message of <374EA3EF.A00782D1@isd.net>
from ytsejam@ax.com:
> >stay far away from Sony when it comes to home audio. Sony video, (DVD,
>
> Agreed..
>
> >VCR, Tvs, etc.) is actually some great stuff for the price.
>
> OK at best.. For reasonable priced TVs and VCRs, I've found Panasonic
> to be one of the best values around. Hitachi also has some nice stuff.
> I'd almost be willing to recommend Mitsubishi if they could manage to
> build reliable logic circuits and remote control receivers.
Panasonic isn't bad, and Zenith is still pretty decent. Sony TVs are crap. They
blow their picture tubes more quickly and more often than any other brand of tv,
even the kmart brands like GPX.
-Brian
------------------------------
No hope.
No fear.
-Max Cavalera
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 08:09:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: trent <cybertrent@yahoo.com>
To: ytsejam@axnet.net
Subject: Re: Gee, am I a bored person or what?
Message-ID: <19990528150926.7135.rocketmail@web502.yahoomail.com>
--- Korg Ecksthrey <korgx3@safelink.net> wrote:
> Maybe someday I'll be able to make this puppy public
> access (cable modems
> might be coming here this year!), but until then,
> this 2 week long no repeat
> jukebox is mine, all mine! HAHAHAHAHAHA! :)
I'm getting a cable modem in a few weeks. My brother
already has one. He lives in Austin and they're one
of the first cities around that has gotten them. If
Austin has them (and again, I know for a fact that
they do) I would imagine that LA has 'em too. Anyway,
cable modems are right around the corner, but I'm not
entirely convinced that they're all that they've been
cracked up to be.
===
*Trent
"Here he comes he's a man of the land
He's leatherman, smile on his face axe in his hand."
* Eddie Vedder, a man amongst men
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 11:11:12 -0700
From: Brian Lundy <Styles@injersey.com>
To: ytsejam@axnet.net
Subject: More Audio (NDTC)
Message-ID: <374EDC3F.C5EB3C57@injersey.com>
i would
have thought that yamaha would also fall under the "shit" category.
not so?
Absolutely not. Granted, they aren't California Labs or the other
brands that Al (I think) was mentioning. But
they kick serious ass for the price! The Yamaha's have won lots of
audio-phile awards, especially the flagship
models. Up past $2000 in price and over 650 continuous watts of
power!!! But they start as low as $400 for a
lower power model, and nothing can touch them in the price range. Other
great brands in the same catagory:
Harmon Kardon (A little warm and fuzzy sounding for my taste,
personally, but still great stuff)
Denon (The only brand that may beat out Yamaha, especially in
stereo mode, but in AC-3, DTS, or pro-logic
modes, I like Yam better)
Onkyo (The Sherman tank of the audio world, can't kill it. Very
clean power, only brand to use exclusive
Motorolla Chips)
Brands to avoid:
Awia - unless you're buying a walkman or boombox
Jvc - Good video, crap audio
Sony - Great video, really crappy audio
Kenwood - not the home company they used to be. Kenwood car
audio is damn nice for the price though.
Technics - Also no where as good as it used to be, but
probably the best of the afforementioned crap
brands.
Panasonic - Same brand as Technics. Literally, like Dodge and
Chrysler (Speaking of shit)
i've got an STR-D605.
Right, the STR line is Sony's entry line. The "6" in 605 means that
model is about half way up the STRD line.
The 200s are lowest, the 1000 models are highest. Instead of having
seperate power supplies for each
channel, it uses ic chips to delegate where the power should go and
when. That's why you have no balls to your
rear channel, and power protection problems. Common problems on those
types of recievers.
Question: As far as your surround sound goes, how do you have it
wired? I'm just wondering if you've made
some of the same mistakes as most other customers. (I worked in a
mid-level high-fi store for 5 years.) Write
back and let me know, maybe I could help.
>stay far away from Sony when it comes to home audio. Sony video,
(DVD,
hehe, i didn't want to get the sony, but my grandfather swears by sony
audio
and convinced my dad to get it. in my room i have an old piece of shit
technics component system (our old one) that, to me at least, sounds
better
than the sony in the living room.
I believe it. Technics used to be some serious equiptment. Try
dropping it out a window, I bet it will still
work. (don't!, just making a point) And even Sony used to be better
than they are. Probably why your
granddad thought your dad should buy it.
another thing this conversation has helped me out
Thanks Ytsejam(tm)! moo :)
Very cool. Here's a few more hints;
1.) Keep your power cables and your signal wires as far from each
other as possible. Run the power cables
down one side of the components, and your rca cables and speaker wires
down the other side. If they HAVE to
come into contact with each other, try to minimize it. Let them cross
perpendicular, non run side by side in
paralel. This is an easy way to cut down on interference and noise.
Helps even if you have good cables.
Which brings me to my next point:
2.) ALWAYS use good cables. You don't have to get Monster 3 cable
at $150 for 3 feet, but NEVER use
that black and red RCA cable that came with your audio components.
Monster, (for example), makes cables
just for CD players, tape decks, etc. And NEVER use "zip" cable as
someone else posted, that lampcord is
total crap. It's the quality of the wire, not the thickness that will
better your sound. In other words, 10 gauge
Radio Shack cable is still shit, there's just more of it. A 14 gauge
wire by Monster or AR will be far superior to
any of that stuff. Here's a rule of thumb, if your not spending close
to, if not more, than $1.00 per foot for wire
for your main channel speakers, you're cheating yourself.
Hope this helps.
Brian http://www.brian.lundy.net
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End of YTSEJAM Digest 4870
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